Seedlings with an open root system - how to choose them and plant them without mistakes in the garden (part 1)


Dear Readers! I present to you a new author - VK Zhelezov, a well-known gardener and owner of a fruit plant nursery in Khakassia. He is famous for growing Manchu apricots in Siberia. Moreover, small-fruited, medium-fruited, and large-fruited (up to 100 g one apricot) varieties grow in his rich garden. And this is in the conditions of the Shushenskoye area - the village where V.I. Lenin. Valery Konstantinovich also actively distributes apricot plants among other enthusiastic gardeners and gardeners. He has vast experience in working with fruit plants, his own growing technologies. He even argues with venerable scientists who are not ready to accept many of his findings. In confirmation of the success of the famous gardener, I offer a photo from his rich garden.

I hope that Valery Konstantinovich will appear on our pages more than once, but today I offer his article on the purchase and planting of seedlings with an open root system, on possible mistakes and miscalculations here. Now in St. Petersburg they work, replacing each other with exhibitions and fairs, at which gardeners and summer residents are offered seedlings of various fruit plants and berry bushes. I think the advice of such an experienced gardener will come in handy for many.

So, the word of V.K. To Zhelezov:

Friends, I got in a hurry and made a special memo for my son Sergei, who grows seedlings. Here she is:

Memo for buyers of open-root seedlings

1. After unpacking the parcel or bringing the seedlings to the garden, put them for one night in a container with cold, preferably melt or rain water, in a dark, unheated room.

2. It can be done both in the fall and in the spring, even if the ground has thawed in a layer only two fingers thick. In this case, rake a gentle hill 20-30 cm high (in snowy areas up to 0.5 m high) and up to 2 meters in diameter from the thawed earth. It must be remembered: the earlier you plant a seedling, the more chances that, given the time lost for its survival (it needs to get sick, because it was pulled out of its native environment), it will mature before winter (and the buds, and bark, and shoots).

3. In the center of the hill, you need to make a hole no more than the width and length of the straightened roots. Refueling of any fertilizers, even organic ones, should be excluded.

4. If this is a seedling from the Zhelezovy nursery, then the presale pruning of the seedling has already been done professionally. For all the years of work in the nursery, not a single uncut seedling has been removed from our nursery - we treat this in good faith, this is our family pride.

5. If along the way you are planting seedlings from the market or nurseries, then do this trimming yourself, and you need to trim at least half of the crown. I can’t tell you more precisely without seeing your seedlings. But I warn you: pity is out of place here. In the absence of pre-sale pruning lies the ignorance of sellers and resellers of seedlings, as well as the cause of illness and death of millions of seedlings.

6. On the seedlings from the Zhelezovy nursery, you can see a small speck of paint at the base of the trunk. It is not at all accidental there: the seedlings will have the maximum chances of survival and further development if it, this speck, is present and after planting looks, firstly, strictly to the south (this is how it grew in the nursery), and - secondly, if this speck is on the ground-to-air border in a new place. After all, this speck is nothing more than a sign to indicate the root collar of a seedling.

Note: the root collar is a special place of a seedling that has grown from a seed (not buried when planting), which after transplantation should not "hang" in the air, and should not be buried in a new place.

7. Top dressing of the seedling with fertilizers only after planting, and by the method of mulching (even spreading over the surface, retreating from the stem of the seedling by half a meter).

I drew up this memo for my son, then admired my work, thought and decided that the same memo can be useful to all gardeners who write out seedlings or, God forbid, buy them on the market with “valuable” advice from dense or just random sellers and neighbors. Then I added my corporate photos (see below) and invite all interested gardeners and gardeners to familiarize themselves with them and use them in practice.

Reasoning about why there are almost no gardens in Russia, and the average life of fruit trees is only a few years:

I am opening a terrible secret for the layman-summer resident and the producers of seedlings, substituting people all the time, selling seedlings with open root system until mid-summer and late autumn. But all fruit trees are of historical origin from the extreme ... South of Europe, Asia and Africa. And there summer is 2-3 months longer and there is rare snow (every few years - a national holiday for people and a tragedy for trees).

In reality, this means that even if the seedling woke up on time, no later than the aborigines, then, even without dying (it will be covered with snow in the fall), it will hurt and die early, most often without bearing a single fruit.

This conclusion is terrible, but it is not a verdict. Ten percent of gardens in Central Russia and southern Siberia can flourish - on the southern slopes of mountains and hills, in urban areas, in the vicinity of hydroelectric power plants, in fertile microzones.

Ninety percent of the owners of summer cottages in the Central zone and in the North of Russia (and this is almost all of Russia) are doomed not to the death of plants, but to growing semi-cultivated, not very tasty fruits. But even here there is a problem with timing.

Anecdote to the topic: during a divorce, a man complains to the judge that the reason for this is his wife's boredom. Like, May Day is on the street, and the wife does not allow her to relax, demanding to throw the tree out of the apartment.

Now imagine the all-Russian picture: trees bloom, May holidays (who does not know - this is the peak of sales), and a happy man, having finally thrown away a Christmas tree, hurries to the market, buys either a dead seedling with an open root system or still alive, but with blossoming leaves (will dry out after planting!) And let's plant it in the garden. But no one has ever explained to him or to you anywhere in the media over 200 years of printing that the main killer of the best and most reliable seedlings is precisely the short Russian summer, which inexperienced gardeners reduce even more with late plantings. Buds, shoots and bark do not ripen. At the very least, diseases are provided even with proper planting.

This means that in this publication we will now learn how to prepare seedlings in the fall, and in the spring we will plant seedlings as early as possible. We will shift and shift the planting dates closer to the beginning of spring, saving every day and every hour. Let's start!

Photo 1

The principle of growing the healthiest seedlings is to plant them on untouched turf (see photo 1).

Isn't it unexpected and incomprehensible? Let me explain. Under the sod, untouched by a shovel or plow, underground inhabitants - mushrooms, earthworms, ants and other insects, bacteria have already rebuilt a comfortable city for the entire community with a sod roof, with ventilation-aeration and sewage. In terms of its complexity (millions of inhabitants per 1 square meter), it surpasses (especially underground anthill factories) everything that mankind has created. This is part of life support and us ungrateful ones.

If this is taken as an axiom, then, in order to simply convert the soil (the worst) into garden soil, you need to plant seedlings with maximum savings in sod cover. That is, good soil from the side and a hole strictly according to the size of the roots of the seedling - that's all that is needed, no more. Then, as the new roof of an already multi-storey city grows and develops, that is, a crown with leaves, a “new” soil is formed. Richer and more granular. The construction ends when the crown reaches its maximum splendor and with the help of the sheet apparatus not only works like a solar panel, but also regulates the flow of rainwater with maximum efficiency. And then the soil is in the most favorable conditions - the perimeter (according to the projection of the crown) with the tips of the roots is moistened, and the stem of the tree remains (should remain!) In maximum dryness, ensuring longevity.

Note: when the integrity of the soil and turf before planting and after planting becomes an axiom, and the crowns are untouchable, and the consciousness of amateur gardeners, bewildered with the help of the media, is rebuilt, then gardens will finally appear in Russia better than foreign ones.

If someone is interested in our nursery and its products, I inform you about the contact details:

Nursery with grafted seedlings - Sergey Valerievich Zhelezov: tel. 8-923-336-82-66, 8-983-275-40-56, e-mail: [email protected]

Zhelezov Valery Konstantinovich - bones, seeds, cuttings, training discs and grafting tape kits: 655602, Republic of Khakassia, Sayanogorsk, 10 micro-district, 2-A, apt. 7, tel. 8 (39042) 2-63-76, 8-960-776-86-72, e-mail: [email protected] http://sad-sib.ru

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Valery Zhelezov

Photo by the author


Advantages and disadvantages of open-root seedlings

Even though the summer this year turned out to be damp and cold, autumn promises to be warm enough. And the Sadko nursery is already ready to offer its customers fruit crops with an open root system. As always, apple, pear, mountain ash, irga, hawthorn will go on sale first. A little later stone fruit crops - cherry, plum, sweet cherry, apricot.

Saplings with an open root system (ACS) have many advantages. These plants root quickly and more successfully, and are several times cheaper than planting material with a closed root system. The only drawback is that such trees and shrubs cannot be stored for a long time, since their roots dry out quickly. Therefore, it is necessary to plant these apple trees and plums within a few days after purchase.


How to plant roses in autumn with an open root system

Experienced gardeners say that it is better to plant roses in autumn. At this time, there are all the necessary conditions that will help the young seedling take root and take root in a new place. It often rains in the fall, so you don't have to worry about watering. In addition, the correct air humidity and the soil warmed up to the required level contribute to successful rooting. But no matter how favorable the conditions are, much depends on the gardener. This article will look at how open-rooted roses are planted in the fall.

Selection of suitable seedlings

It is better to buy bushes for planting in specialized stores. Of course, you can order seedlings on the Internet, but you will not be able to look at their condition. Bushes with an open root system are cheaper. But it is important to remember that such seedlings must be planted in the near future.

The roots should not be dry or rotting. A healthy root system always develops proportionally and also has a natural, uniform color. A good seedling should have at least 3 main shoots. Thorns and stems have a uniform green color and glossy sheen.

If you buy bushes with a closed root system, it is imperative to see how tightly the earthen lump adheres to the root system and container. A healthy shrub has a large number of young branches on which there are fresh green leaves.

Choosing a site for growing roses

The seedling will take root well, and will actively grow only in the correctly selected area. In this case, it is necessary to take into account some requirements. The fact is that a rose is a rather whimsical plant, for which you need to create suitable conditions.

Rose loves warmth and sunshine. Therefore, only well-lit places are chosen for growing the "queen of flowers". On the north side, the flower garden can be covered with buildings, the main thing is that the south side is completely open. Bushes should not be blown by winds from all directions. In addition, the rose does not grow well in shady places. For this reason, the plant is not planted near trees and lush shrubs.

The groundwater level in the area with roses should not be too high. Stagnant moisture can provoke rotting of the root system. In such conditions, the roses will simply die. What kind of soil is suitable for growing roses?

  • loose fertile soil
  • soil acidity level - slightly acidic
  • a sufficient amount of mineral and organic fertilizers.

To plant seedlings, you need to prepare the site in advance. To do this, they carefully dig it up. At this stage, you can apply mineral fertilizers. The amount of nutrients is determined according to the instructions. A month before planting a bush, you need to fertilize the soil with compost or humus.

The correct technology for planting roses

Probably the most important thing in planting roses is choosing a specific date. It depends on whether the young seedlings will have time to get accustomed to the onset of frost. In the southern regions, it is customary to plant roses from the beginning of October to the middle of the month. In the middle lane, this period falls in mid-September - the first weeks of October. In areas with a cold climate, plants are trying to plant before the end of September.

If you plant roses too early, then foliage can actively begin to grow on the bushes, and frosts will catch the plants at the most inopportune moment, when the young shoots are still very tender. If, on the contrary, the seedlings are planted later, then the bushes simply will not have time to take root and may freeze during the first night frosts.

It happens that the weather changes dramatically, and severe frosts begin. In this case, planting roses is not advised. Seedlings in containers can be placed on a glazed balcony. The main thing is that the air temperature in such a room does not fall below 0 ° C. And bushes with an open root system are best planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse.

How to prepare a seedling

Planting roses begins with the preparation of the seedlings themselves. Bushes with an open root system must be left in a bucket of water for a day. If you are going to plant roses from special containers, then no preparation is needed. After that, all damaged and dry branches are cut from the bushes. It is also necessary to remove the leaves and the shoots themselves from the plant, leaving about 30 centimeters.

Rotten and dry roots should be removed. A white core should be visible on the cut, which means that living wood has begun. For prevention, you can spray the seedling with a solution (3%) of ferrous sulfate. This is done to make the plant less sick. And the roots themselves should be dipped into a special "chatterbox". It is made from mullein and clay (100 grams of mullein are taken for 200 grams of clay).

How roses are planted

First you need to dig a hole. Separate holes are dug for one or two bushes. If you are going to plant a large number of roses, then it will be more convenient to dig a trench. The hole should be at least 40 cm in diameter, depending on the size of the root system. In autumn, roses need to be planted deeply (60 to 70 cm), as the topsoil freezes faster.

You also need to determine the distance between the bushes. It all depends on the specific variety of roses:

  1. Polyanthus roses are planted at a distance of about 40 cm.
  2. For hybrid tea, you need at least 60 cm.
  3. Repairers will feel good at a distance of about 70 cm.
  4. Park varieties should be 1 m apart.

If the soil is rather heavy, it is necessary to place special drainage on the bottom of the pit. For this, the bottom surface is lined with a layer of broken brick or pebbles. Such drainage should be no more than 2-3 cm in thickness. Next, you need to carefully spread the root system along the bottom. To do this, you can pour a little soil in the middle of the hole, and then put a seedling on it and lower the roots down.

Each layer of soil is slightly tamped so that no air pockets remain in the soil. After that, the seedling is generously watered. This may require about 2 buckets of liquid. After the moisture has been absorbed, it is advisable to mulch the soil. In autumn, such a procedure can save the bushes from temperature changes. The still wet soil is sprinkled with dry soil a little, after which the bushes are hilled with peat. The height of the embankment should be at least 20 cm. Compost or hay is also suitable for this purpose.

Preparing for winter

It is important not only to plant roses correctly, but also to cover them well for the winter. This is especially true for regions where winters are very cold and frosty. To reliably insulate the shelter, it is necessary to make a special frame of metal rods around the plant. You can also use ordinary wooden pegs instead, which simply point into the ground. Then the structure is covered with a special material. It can be lutrasil or agrofiber. The shelter must be properly attached with wire so that it is not blown away by the wind. When the snow falls, the shelter can be additionally covered with a thick snowdrift.

Conclusion

As we have seen, planting roses is quite a hassle. It is necessary to choose a good planting material, prepare a seedling and soil, dig a hole of the right size, mulch the soil and cover the bush well for the winter. Only by doing all this can you achieve good results. But how pleasant it will be when a bush planted in the fall blooms next year, delighting everyone around with its aroma and beauty.


Characteristics of the Zilga grape variety

This variety has good prospects for cultivation in the northern regions. They manage to get the harvest in the suburbs, Udmurtia, Siberia, the Leningrad region, in the Urals.

A dense bunch of Zilga grapes with isabelle-flavored berries

  • Frost resistant. Without shelter, it can tolerate frosts down to - 25 ° C (according to some sources, up to - 37 ° C).
  • Prefers slightly acidic soils.
  • Resistant to mildew, gray rot and powdery mildew. Under unfavorable conditions it is necessary to carry out preventive spraying.
  • Early ripe variety, growing season 102 - 108 days.
  • Annual shoots ripen by 85%.
  • Vigorous, in cold regions needs strong pruning.
  • Uncovered, can winter without additional shelter.
  • Self-pollinated, forms bisexual flowers.
  • Large berries weighing up to 4 g.
  • The sugar content in berries is 18-22%.
  • Fruit acidity up to 5 g / l.
  • The taste of berries is "isabelny" ("labruskovy", "fox").
  • Tasting taste score 7.1 points (out of 10).
  • A variety of universal use.

Mildew - downy mildew. The disease manifests itself in warm and humid weather. Oidium is powdery mildew; hot dry weather contributes to its development. These fungal diseases do not have time to severely harm grapes with a short growing season.


3. Storage of rose seedlings in the basement or cellar

Roses are well stored for 2 months in a basement or cellar with an air temperature of 0 to 3 ° C. To do this, the seedlings are placed vertically in a bucket or any container and sprinkled with wet river sand, peat or sawdust so that the root collar is slightly deepened.

The disadvantage of this method of storing seedlings is that vegetables and seedlings of various plants are often kept in the basement, which can be a source of disease. Therefore, if possible, roses should be kept separately or as far away from other crops as possible.


What to do, if?

Rhizomes, delenki, seedlings (hereinafter "roots") are most often sold in plastic blisters or in bags with a cardboard accompanying label. The bag should contain: the name of the variety (including in Latin, it will help to accurately determine the species), a brief description of the variety, quantity in pieces, planting instructions, a note on passing quality control, the ratio of culture to light. Winter hardiness data should include either the growing area or the maximum minus temperature in degrees.

The packaging should not be damaged, the filler (peat, sawdust, shavings) should be slightly damp. Preference should be given to:

  • dormant plants, without growing pale shoots
  • keep the roots healthy, elastic, clean
  • they should not be overdried (look like a lifeless herbarium), shriveled or rotted
  • obvious evidence of illness - mold, suspicious wet spots, rot, or slippery areas
  • growth buds indicating that the plant is alive should be visible: host, delphiniums, brunner, astilbe, peonies, phlox, dahlia, monarda
  • if you buy bulbs lily, make sure that they have healthy roots at the bottom, a dense bulb, there are no spots and rot on the scales, the sprout is small.
  • in gladioli, young corms are rounded, not flat.

purchase of astilbe with ACS in early spring

After the purchase, the task comes down to one thing - to maximize the dormant state of plants in apartment conditions. It is preferable to store dormant plants (with non-germinated buds) at a low positive temperature until planting.

Keep the roots of most perennials in a purchased substrate at 1-3 ° C before planting in the ground. They can be dug into the so-called "April mud" after the snow melts. Unwakened and just starting to grow plants, dig obliquely into the ground and cover with lutrasil.

How to preserve the plant before planting at home? It depends on his condition.

1. The plant is asleep. Store in the refrigerator (packed).

For storage in the refrigerator, only perennials that have not woken up are suitable.

Examine the roots - if necessary, remove the damaged parts, treat with a fungicide ("Skor", "Topaz"). If the peat is dry, cover the roots with slightly moistened sphagnum, place them in a bag with holes made in advance, and put them in the vegetable compartment.

Perfectly lie before planting: hosta, daylily, astilba, bearded iris, sedum, tradescantia, oak sage, meadowsweet, badan.
Make sure that the rhizome does not rot: in Astrantia, Badan, Brunner, Dicenter, Lungwort, Liatrice, Ferns, Rogersia, Tradescantia.

2. The plant has woken up. Store in the refrigerator (in a pot).

If the kidneys wake up, you will have to put them in a container and put them in the refrigerator: aconite, phlox, Siberian iris, hellebore, delphinium, heuchera, tiarella, echinacea, ash geranium.

To start the growing season, these plants need a dormant period at 3-5 ° C, the so-called "cold start", so in May they are planted in the ground already grown in cool conditions.

It is important to consider: before planting the divisions in pots, the root system is slightly shortened - after pruning, the active growth of lateral roots begins. Suction root hairs are formed on them, on which adequate nutrition and plant development depend.

3. The plant has woken up. We keep it on the windowsill.

If the buds hatch in the refrigerator, and it is too early to plant the plant in the flowerbed, plant it in loose, non-nutritious soil and, if possible, put the pots either on a glazed loggia, or on the lightest window.
Calmly withstand this procedure: hosts, daylilies, bleeding centers. They are planted in open ground after the threat of repeated frosts disappears, gradually accustoming them to bright light and temperature changes on the balcony.

Useful tips for preserving perennials before planting in the ground

Peonies

If you bought a peony in the spring, do not expect to revive a hopeless peony cut (a coveted but last one in the store) with growth stimulants - it is better to choose a healthy plant carefully or refuse to buy. The herbaceous peony has two periods of regrowth of the suction roots - in autumn (August-September) and in spring (April-May). The optimal time for their division and planting is August. In the spring - only by force. But rare new items can be received just at the wrong time - in February-March. Later, it is better not to buy peonies with a bare root system (delenki).

What to do: plant the plants in 2-liter pots and keep "on starvation rations" in a cool, dark place (cellar, basement, glazed loggia, garage) until warm weather, only slightly moistening the substrate. After the threat of frost has passed, dig in the pots with peonies in the garden until autumn. You can plant them in the spring, but try not to disturb the earthy ball so as not to damage the suction roots.

Treelike peonies with an open root system in April in most shopping centers will already have dry buds and roots, so it is better not to wait with their purchase. Carefully inspect the grafting site so that there are no signs of decay, plant in the same way as grassy peonies. If the buds have not woken up, the plant should be stored in a cool, dark place - for example, in a refrigerator at 0 ... + 2 ° C. If you wake up and start growing, expose the pot of peony to the light. Optimally on a cool windowsill.

Irises

If you bought Siberian iris in the spring, inspect the roots for rot and spray gently to avoid water getting on the leaf fan. Plant the plants in pots, refrigerate and keep them dry. Replace watering by spraying the top layer of the substrate as needed. Since the leaf fan should not be waterlogged, cover it with your hand to keep moisture out. For rooting in free soil, "Siberians" need a long period of sufficient humidity without temperature drops. In places where drought sets in quickly, it is preferable to plant them in the fall, and in cool climates, they can also be planted in the spring, after the snow melts.

Agapanthus

Agapanthus, of course, will decorate any composition, but it is better to grow it in a pot and remove it from the garden for the winter. In the open field, this culture does not winter.

Liatris

Liatris is planted in the spring, but until it grows, it will not show itself in all its glory, so a "hole" will gap in the ceremonial composition for a long time.

Storage in the refrigerator does not like mallow, yarrow, muzzle, blueheads, tansy - it is better to keep them on the windowsill in containers before planting in the ground.

In the dark, plants can form discolored shoots, which must be gradually accustomed to sunlight. If there are no whitish shoots, take them out to the loggia in the sun, lightly shade them with newspaper or paper for several days. If, during the time they were kept in the refrigerator, they did appear, let the plants get used to the light gradually.

Phlox is not suitable for growing in a container culture, as it does not like overheating of the roots. It is better not to buy it at all in the spring "in the roots".


Compositions of trees and shrubs in the garden

If trees and shrubs are already present in your garden, you need to treat them with care and understand that this is the wealth of the garden. Try to highlight their beauty, make them garden accents.

If a tree or shrub dries up or significantly interferes with the convenience of movement around the site, hinders the implementation of important plans for arranging the garden, you can think about uprooting them. Well, if there are no trees in your garden (this often happens on new, still uninhabited areas), then, of course, you need to plant them! Only in this case, you will create the image of the garden, and it is important to correctly determine the species of trees and shrubs and the places of their planting.
think, it is the trees and shrubs that make the garden a garden. They make its shape and structure noticeable, even from afar, emphasize an interesting layout, and unite the garden into a single system. In addition, trees and shrubs in the garden represent a long-term basis of the garden, to which you can add certain "decorations", plant or architectural, and also change them like a constructor. If you have created a good foundation with trees and shrubs, you have created at least half the success. For the foundation of the garden to be successful, it is necessary to correctly select and place trees and shrubs in the garden. Moreover, the concept of "choosing the right" means not only to choose the right one in appearance, physical condition of these plants, namely, the desired height, with the desired crown shape, with the desired color of the leaves.


Planting a rose with a closed root system in open ground in spring

Nowadays, rose seedlings with a closed root system (ZKS) are popular. These are roses that are sold already planted in containers. Such seedlings have their own advantages: they take root quickly and easily if planting in open ground is done correctly. How should they be planted?

How to care for rose seedlings before planting

Roses with a closed root system do not require immediate planting, in good conditions they can be stored for a long time, even until next year. It is best to place the pots of roses in a shady, windless place in the garden. To prevent the roots from overheating and drying out, it is advisable to dig the pots into the soil or sawdust.

Water your rose seedlings regularly before planting. Spraying the leaves with plain water is also helpful. If planting is delayed by more than 2-3 weeks, start feeding the seedlings weekly with liquid or soluble fertilizer for flower seedlings. What is needed is the seedling fertilizer used for potted plants. Specialized fertilizers for roses are not suitable when caring for seedlings. They are ideal for roses already planted in the ground, and if you put such fertilizer in a container, you can accidentally burn the roots.

If you bought rose seedlings at the end of winter or early spring, when the temperature is still below freezing outside, you will have to store and care for them indoors. How to do this, read the article: Save roses before planting.

Preparing a rose seedling for planting in the ground

Before planting, to make sure the rose is of good quality, carefully remove the seedling from the pot. Some firms use a metal mesh liner to make this easier. This is the best option because the mesh allows you to see the condition of the roots without breaking the earthy coma.

The roots should penetrate the entire earthy ball and have fresh white roots. Such good seedlings do not require additional processing, they are only soaked in water for 1-2 hours before planting.

It is not necessary to remove the metal mesh from rose seedlings during planting in the ground. It decomposes itself in the soil in 1-2 years and does not interfere with the development of roots.

There are other packaging options, such as a cardboard insert. It also retains a lump, but it is very problematic to determine the condition of the roots in it, especially if the roots have not yet sprouted through the walls. If you cannot see the root system or are in doubt about its quality, soak the seedling for several hours in a solution of a rooting stimulant. To obtain a solution, pour a sachet (10 g) of the stimulant in 7-8 liters of water and stir.

Submerge the rose roots in the solution directly in the container. If the container has a cardboard insert, then you can remove the plastic pot and soak the rose seedling in the cardboard. Processing time is 2-3 hours.

The solution of "Kornevin" for planting roses can be replaced with the solution of "Epin". Dissolve 40 drops in 2 liters of water and pour the container well by placing it in a bucket. Leave in solution for 2-3 hours.

A rose can grow in one place for decades, so the planting site requires careful preparation.

Prepare a landing pit. The size of the planting pit for a rose 60x60, depth 50 cm. Leave the top fertile soil layer next to the pit, remove the lower soil layers. Soil for planting roses should be loose and fertile, so add humus or well-rotted compost, peat, sand, as well as 0.5 cups of double superphosphate to the soil from the top layer. Roses prefer neutral soil, so add additional additives to lower the acidity of the soil: 1-2 cups of wood ash or 1 cup of dolomite flour. Mix all components thoroughly and fill the planting hole with the mixture.

If you dug a planting hole just before planting a rose, then fill the mixture in layers, compacting each layer so that after watering the earth does not settle too much.

How deep should you plant a container rose?

After filling the hole, make a deepening in the soil so that the top of the coma, when planting, is 5-7 cm below the edge of the hole. It is better to plant roses with a slight deepening.

Plant roses directly in the net or in a cardboard insert, but those parts of the insert where the roots have not yet germinated can be carefully removed.

This will provide air access to the root system, and the rose will root better after planting.

Place the seedling in the prepared groove. Check again the level of deepening of the top of the earthen clod (5-7 cm) and pour the solution remaining after soaking into the hole.

Fill the hole with the remaining fertile mixture flush with the edge of the hole so that excess rainwater does not get into it during rains and does not stagnate.

Water. For watering one rose seedling after planting, you need at least 8-10 liters of water in order to well wet all the soil in the planting pit.

After watering, check the rose planting level again. If necessary, correct: either add soil, or, conversely, gently pull at the base of the bush so that the root collar is closer to the soil surface.

After watering, cover the surface with peat to avoid soil crust formation.

If the weather is hot, then in the first time after planting the roses should be shaded. The easiest way is to put small arcs and pull any covering material on them.

There is not a single garden plot where the owners do not grow such popular flowers as roses. A fragrant rose garden is the pride of any summer resident. In this article, we will look at how and when roses are planted in open ground.

When to plant roses - this question causes controversy even among experienced gardeners. Some say that this should be done in the fall, while others only in the summer.

Autumn work on planting this culture is used in the southern territories of the country, where winters are mild and short and you don't have to worry that the roots of the plant will freeze. However, if the winter is very warm, then the planted bush will not overwinter.

Planting roses in open ground

Without a period of winter dormancy, it will be difficult for the plant to enter the active growth stage in the spring. At the same time, it is in the autumn, when it rains, that the culture will not need to be watered, it is not necessary to protect it from too active sun.

In general, rose bushes grown in closed pots can be planted during any period of the warm season of the year. It is only seedlings with open roots that should be cultivated in fall or spring. Any of the periods has its advantages, and we will talk about how to plant this culture in open land in the spring, so that in summer and until late autumn you can already admire its colorful buds.

It is in the spring that you can not be afraid that the flowers will freeze from unexpectedly severe frosts. There is one drawback in spring planting - this is the fact that as the ambient temperature rises, the crop will require additional watering and protection from the sun.

Preparing the soil for planting roses in spring

The first important step is choosing the location of the rose garden on the territory of the personal plot. The best place that is suitable for a favorable rooting of a rose in the open field is a flat area, hidden from the wind. As for the type of soil, we must pay tribute to the unpretentiousness of this miracle, however, loamy soil, when peat, compost, humus are added to it, is best suited.

It is recommended to add sand to loamy soils. It is better to introduce other mineral compositions only if there is a lack of them in the ground prepared for breaking the rose garden. To do this, you need to do a soil analysis. How do you know for yourself that the soil is too acidic and needs to be calcified? It is necessary to mix the land from the site where the planting of bushes is planned with ordinary water and put a litmus paper in the mixture.

If the soil is too acidic, the piece of paper will turn red. If the earth is alkaline, the litmus test will turn blue. Alkaline soil also does not always have a good effect on the development of roses, since a disease such as leaf chlorosis (lack of iron, leading to yellowing) develops in them.

But organic matter as fortification can be introduced right before planting when digging a flower bed, to a depth of 0.5–0.7 m. You should not be afraid of excess organic fertilizers. Moreover, with abundant watering, they quickly go deep into the soil, and the roots of young seedlings rush there.

Requirements for seedlings for spring planting

Before purchasing seedlings in a store, you need to carefully examine them. A quality bush has living roots, up to 20 cm long and several green branches up to 30 cm high. The branches should have a green and smooth trunk. With visible corrugated (compressed) bark on the branches, it must be borne in mind that the seedling is dry and will not grow. The roots from bona fide suppliers are wrapped in a raw cotton sack (burlap). If the seedlings are ready for planting, then there are no questions. You can start work.

But, if some period is still needed for storing plants, then it must be borne in mind that to wait for their planting in open ground, the roots must also under certain conditions. It is best to wrap each seedling in a newspaper sprinkled with a solution of potassium permanganate. They should be stored in this form in a cold room at a temperature of 0 to +5 degrees. There is one more nuance, during storage, each seedling must be in an upright position. The wrapper should be checked periodically for rot and fungal bacteria. Found damaged branches must be removed from other healthy plants.

Another way to preserve purchased shrubs is to plant the seedlings in tall containers. But, for this, it is better not to use plastic bottles of such forms, from which it will be difficult to get the seedling without losing near the root soil. If, when transplanting from a bottle into open ground, such a lump falls apart, it means that the rose will be harder to endure engraftment. Seedlings purchased in greenhouses are sold already in the correct high and rectangular container, you just have to carefully transplant and protect the planted bush from unexpected frosts or sunburn.

In the spring, starting in April, seedlings with an open root system take root better. If flowers grown or bought in pots (with a root system formed in the ground) are subjected to spring transplantation, then before planting in open ground, it is recommended to first take them out into the open air and let them stand at street temperature for a week (harden). So the plant will better survive the subsequent planting in free soil.

Planting roses in open ground in spring

Planting roses in the ground too early in the spring (March - early April) is not recommended. During this period, the land is still frozen. Roses should be planted only in completely thawed soil, their roots do not tolerate cold well. The best spring period for planting seedlings is April from about 5 to 20, as the soil thaws after winter, when it warms up to about +10 degrees. In general, the exact date will depend on the climate in which the flowers are grown. In some cases, spring planting is done in May.

The selected area for a rose garden should be well lit and heated, protected from the wind and equipped with drainage. If groundwater is located nearby or moisture stagnation may occur with abundant watering, then such a place for growing roses is unsuitable. Roses need a lot of air and sun to develop and bloom. Therefore, plant the bushes in unshaded, spacious areas of the garden, without tall bushes and trees nearby, so that the shadow from the crown does not fall on them.

Pre-dig a separate hole for each planting branch. Its size should be about 40 cm in diameter. We must not forget, just before grounding the seedling, cut its roots to 20 cm.This is done because the uncut roots will quickly penetrate deep into the soil, through the fertile layer, and the flower will try to look for food for growth in the lower depleted karst, where there is no depth up to 0.5 m of the fortified composition. And be sure to dip the trimmed roots into the clay mixture (chatterbox).

  • Mix 1 volume of clay and the same volume of mullein (organic fertilizer - cow dung).
  • Add water to form a liquid consistency that can not drain from the roots, in the form of a protective and nutritious layer.

Cut off all the shoots on the selected branch of the rose seedling, leaving only 3-4 of the strongest ones. Carefully place a seedling with a trimmed root and treated shoots in the finished planting hole. The roots must be straightened and sprinkled with soil, gradually compacting each layer. We provide the bush with good artificial watering. It's all. The rose is ready for active vegetative growth and the issuance of new young shoots. You need to water the culture no more than 3 times a week, but abundantly. In warm and sunny weather, the seedling will be accepted and will continue to please the owners. At cold air temperatures, you can overlay the rhizomes with straw or coniferous branches on top (mulch).

The sequence of works on planting a rose

Let's remember the points how to plant a rose correctly:

  1. Cooking holes or trenches (when planting in a row of several crops) 40x40 cm.
  2. Soil selected from the hole mix with humus (organic fertilizer) and pour the resulting substrate in a small layer into the hole.
  3. For excessively clayey soils add mineral fertilizers. They can be:
    • "Azofoska" - 25 gr for each seedling
    • "Kemira" - 35 grams for each seedling.
  4. Landing hole with two layers of fertilizers (organic and mineral), pour abundantly with water. We must wait until it is completely absorbed into the soil.
  5. We put the seedling and straighten the root... At this stage, we closely monitor the place where the shoots begin, since they should be 3-5 cm above the ground. In this case, other young shoots will not develop, which interfere with the growth of the main ones.
  6. If you plant several bushes in a row, then it is necessary to position the roots of each seedling in relation to each other freely. It will be difficult for them to gain a foothold in crowded conditions. The distance between seedlings in a group planting depends on the characteristics of different varieties of roses and may vary:
    • from 0.2 m to 0.3 m - between seedlings of climbing rose varieties
    • from 0.3 m to 0.5 m - between seedlings for hybrid tea roses (such as Polyanthus roses or Floribunda roses)
    • from 0.4 m to 0.6 m - for compact flower beds (Marie Curie, Marie Antoinette, etc.)
    • from 0.5 m to 1.0 m between bushes - for park lush varieties (Canadian or English park roses).
  7. We carefully fill the hole with a bush, compacting the layers of earth around the seedling with your hands. If over time the earth shrinks, then the soil must be added.
  8. We huddle the top layer 20 cm around each bush and once again water well with water (up to 10 liters per bush). In this case, it is necessary to ensure that holes do not form around the bush, this will lead to stagnation and an excess of moisture and the roots will begin to rot.
  9. To a regular hilling procedure, loosening the earth around the planted rose must be approached seriously. This procedure is performed regardless of the period in which the rose bush is planted. Hilling protects the root system from frost in autumn and excessive overheating in spring, and also contributes to better rooting of a young seedling and saturation of the soil with oxygen.
  10. When planting roses in spring you need to gradually uncook the land around the bush, that is, remove, level. But, this should be completely done only after two weeks, when fresh shoots appear on the branches. There is no need to rush. The weather should be completely stable, the return of spring night frosts should be excluded.

Some features of planting different varieties of roses

  • Climbing roses... Bushes of these varieties can be planted both in spring and autumn. When planting, the seedling is recommended to be immersed in the ground deeper than the grafting site (the beginning of the shoots) by about 10 cm. These varieties need shelter for the winter and the installation of a support during flowering. When planting, the seedling is tilted to a support located at a distance of no more than 0.5 m from the bush.
  • Park roses... To plant these roses, the hole is made larger than the usual one, about 0.9 m in diameter and 0.7 m deep. When planting in a group, you need to make sure that there are no empty places in the row. Park roses in free places will give extra shoots that interfere with the development of the main flower. You can plant voids with annual garden flowers.
  • Hybrid tea varieties... These are the finest and most heat-loving pink flowers. It is better to plant them in May or even June. The main thing is that the weather is already steadily warm. At the first signs of flowering, it is recommended to pick off the buds (from 4 to 6 pieces). But later you can count on long-term flowering.
  • Floribunda tea rose... For this beauty, it is the spring planting in open ground that is recommended. The rose will "throw out" the curly young shoots, so it is necessary to prepare supports for them in advance. But it is better to plant in small holes (up to 0.5 m in diameter) and at a distance of no more than 0.5 m between the bushes.
  • Groundbred roses... An important condition for the growth of these flowers is the absence of weeds on the site. Since the name of the variety speaks for itself, it is better to cover the ground around the bushes with sawdust or crushed bark (sold in a flower shop or any garden store). The root system of soil-growing roses is located on the very surface, filling the space with its flexible and thorny shoots.

Rose bushes are planted in the garden. Their fate now depends on your further attention and care. In addition to planting in the ground, it is also necessary to take into account information about the proper care of the garden rose garden, about possible pests and unwanted diseases.

Planting roses in spring is not a difficult job, but it still requires observance of some nuances. In order for the beauty to take root in your garden, you have to choose the right seedlings, plant them correctly and take care of them.

How to choose the right rose for planting

In order for your business of growing rose bushes to be successful, you need to know how to buy planting material correctly. Choose only closed-root plants and keep the soil close to the root when planting.

Sometimes in supermarkets you can find imported plants with an open root system. They are usually sold in advance. You can buy such seedlings and put some of them in the refrigerator for safekeeping. In this case, they must be placed on the lower shelf, if you put them on the shelves located above, they simply freeze. The storage temperature should be between 0 and + 5 C. During storage, be sure to monitor the condition of the substrate near the roots.

How to plant a garden rose correctly

Many people think that growing a rose in the garden is a very difficult task. But this is not so, the main thing is to observe the peculiarities of planting the plant. In spring, both open and closed root seedlings can be planted. In the process of planting both options, it is necessary to observe some nuances.

How to plant roses with an open root system

Before planting a bush, you should soak it in a clay solution for a period of 6 hours or more. The clay will attach to the roots and protect them until they grow. The seedlings are soaked completely. You can add root roots to the solution.

On the day of planting, you have to process the purchased roses. To do this, remove damaged shoots and prune deformed roots. If the root system is too long, it is necessary to deepen the hole or shorten the roots.

How to plant roses in spring (video)

If black roses or varieties of other types have too long shoots, they should be cut to 25 cm. White shoots are simply broken off. The landing features are as follows:

  • Spring planting of seedlings should be carried out so that the grafting site is above the ground. If the climate is cold, the grafting site should be below ground level, but not much - about 3 cm.
  • Planting of seedlings is carried out obliquely.
  • In areas where the temperature drops below -25 degrees in winter, it is better not to grow roses.
  • Treating the soil near a rose with open grafts should be as careful as possible.
  • After planting, it is necessary to pour 20 liters of water under each seedling. Watering should be done as slowly as possible.
  • After watering, the soil is tamped with hands and mulched.
  • At the end of the work, the seedling is covered with a beige bag. This will protect it from the sun and it will take root better.

Planting seedlings with a closed root system

The rules for planting seedlings with a closed root system are somewhat different. It is better to purchase a rose pot with a net. In this case, it will be easier to get the seedling. The roots of the plant should be white; before work, they are soaked in water for 1 hour. You should not remove the metal mesh, it will decompose on its own.

So, how to plant roses with a closed root system?

  1. To begin with, prepare a landing pit. Its size should reach 60x60 cm, and the depth should be 50 cm.
  2. The soil for the rose should be nutritious and loose, so it is worth adding peat, compost, sand and 0.5 tbsp. double superphosphate.
  3. After the hole is filled, plant the seedling so that the top of its earthen ball is 5 cm lower than the edge of the hole.
  4. Fill the hole with soil, water - 10 liters per plant.
  5. Add more soil, mulch.

At high air temperatures in the first days after planting, the roses should be shaded. To do this, put arcs and put any covering material on them.

At what temperature are roses planted

If roses are planted in the middle lane, then in the spring it is necessary to place them in the ground only when the soil has warmed up to +10 C. This period is celebrated from mid-April to early May. In the spring, standard roses are actively planted.

The rest of the varieties are recommended to be planted in the autumn. But in this case, you should be in time before frost.

In what areas should plants be planted

Roses are very fond of the sun. Therefore, choose a well-lit place. They should not be grown in the shade. Plants do not bloom in such conditions. In addition, they will begin to give blind shoots. The landing site should be well ventilated and light, but protected from strong winds.

In order for a plant to delight you with its beautiful flowering, you need to take care of it, take good care of it. Roses require top dressing and protection from diseases and pests. How to implement them, we will consider further.

Preventive spraying of roses in spring

Roses are often affected by pests and diseases. To protect it, it is recommended to use a solution of 1% Bordeaux liquid, or ferrous sulfate, also 1%.

Another good remedy is Rose Clear. Its application will get rid of black spots, powdery mildew, aphids and rust. Plants are sprayed in the evening. In this case, the evening should be warm and dry. The second spraying is carried out in the summer, when the roses have faded. For preventive purposes, it is recommended to perform treatment every 2 weeks. If the pests have already settled on the roses, you will have to apply fungicides.

Rules for feeding bushes in spring

Top dressing of roses in spring is carried out in several stages.

  1. The first is done immediately after pruning the bush. In this case, nitrogen fertilizers are used - Aquarin, Aquamix. Experienced gardeners recommend using solutions, as they penetrate the soil better. For each bush, you need to add 3.5 liters of funds. It is more difficult to add dry substances. To prevent them from eroding, it will be necessary to carry out mulching. For each bush, 40 g of dry matter is applied. First, mineral fertilizers are applied, then it is the turn of the introduction of organic substances, as a rule, they wait a day between dressings. The amount of application of substances depends on the type of rose.
  2. The second feeding is done after the young shoots have formed. As a rule, this happens 14 days after the first feeding. Organic substances are used as fertilizers - manure, herbal infusions. You can also use minerals for feeding. In this case, 1 spoon of urea and other fertilizers are taken per bucket in the amount written on the package. First, the soil is well spilled, then top dressing is applied. Only in this way the roots of the plant will not be burned.
  3. The third feeding is done before the buds appear. A solution of potassium nitrate is introduced under the bush. Dilute it as follows - 1 tbsp dissolves in a bucket of water. l. potassium nitrate. After the introduction of minerals, organic matter is introduced - it is prepared in the same proportions, but using potassium magnesium.

Rose care: feeding (video)

To grow roses, you need to choose them correctly, paying attention, first of all, to the root system when buying. After that, you should correctly plant the plants, as well as provide them with high-quality care - water and fertilize in a timely manner. Planting roses in the spring, no matter whether it is obtained by the method of "propagation by layering" or otherwise, is qualitatively different from planting them in the fall, it is also worth paying close attention to so that the seedlings take root.

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