How to Grow and Care for Pereskiopsis

Pereskiopsis is the genus name of the family Cactaceae that have characteristics, unlike many other cacti. Their name comes from there likeness to the genus Pereskia, also untypical looking cacti with leaves. The species Pereskiopsis spathulata is the most commonly encountered and used by cacti horticulturalists. Pereskiopsis cacti contain glochids and areoles similar to the Opuntia genus.

They often have tropical features unlike many other cacti with their affection towards regular watering and humidity. They are often found throughout South America in a variety of ecosystems, not exclusive to deserts. However, several species are noted to be in Central America, including Mexico. Yet their presence is quite rare in these instances. Research suggests that they are a highly primitive form of cacti and may give horticulturalists and botanists clues as to what cacti originally looked like before subsequent evolution.

Pereskiopsis are often grown by cuttings. Seeds are very rare in the wild and are unheard of in cultivation. Getting Pereskiopsis to flower is also quite rare with no clear cut techniques in pollination. Cuttings are taken from plants that are mature but not too woody. Woody plants become far too tough and dangerous to work with. The glochids can also become a real pain if not handled properly. These little cacti spines will lodge into your skin and become a real irritant all day! Keep a pair of long tweezers to hold the Pereskiopsis cuttings and plants, but also a small precision pair for removing the glochids.

Growing Conditions

Soil: Unlike most other cacti, Pereskiopsis will put up with a lot of organic material in their soil. Although you should not use a rain forest mix, you can and should have a soil mix that is a little more than 75% organic soil. We do this because, unlike most other cacti, Pereskiopsis are heavy feeders. They grow far more quickly thanks to their leaves, and their roots are far more reaching. The other 25% should consist of an even mix of perlite, pumice, rock, and sand. All of these four provide excellent drainage oxygen flow in the soil. Root rot is common in Pereskiopsis but is easily avoided by adding these.

Light: As with just about every cactus, a lack of light will harm them if you expect growth and continue to water them. You will wait for a long time if you do not have an artificial light source and humidity. Pereskiopsis live in very tropical, wet, and humid regions of Central and South America. This is easy to recreate with your grow light and indoor greenhouse set up. But you must be careful to allow air circulation. This is one of the number one killers of cactus and Pereskiopsis in general behind overwatering. If you have an indoor greenhouse, you can easily do this by opening up the tent for several hours a day and choosing one day a week in which it is open all day. You should have two angles for air circulation to navigate. No artificial fans are needed but can be helpful.

Lighting requirements for Pereskiopsis plants are about 10-14 hours of light a day. Find a balance that fits your lifestyle and that of the plants. If they react negatively toward your specifications, make the appropriate changes.

If you are just growing them during the summer, most northern states and even portions of Canada can maintain Pereskiopsis outside. The months of June, July, and August will be perfect for Pereskiopsis in clay pots. Do not bother watering them and just let the rain take care of them. If you are in the western states, which are much drier, water them when the soil becomes dry. Believe it or not, these cacti will be tolerant of regular potting soil in a sunny and warm location with good air circulation.

Water: Unlike most other cacti, Pereskiopsis has the unique property of wanting more water. Don't make the common mistake, though, and most cacti would prefer if you watered them more. However, the soil, heat, and light that you have are probably not enough to accommodate them. Even in their natural habitat, cacti would prefer more water than they receive.

Grower's Tips

Growing Pereskiopsis is not difficult at all. In fact, the plant is quite tolerant of many mistakes you might throw at it, but there are some considerations you must take before planting your new grafting stock. Depending on the number you have and how you will want to display them will dictate how they are planted. Another consideration is whether you received them as cuttings or as fully rooted plants. A tray that does not separate the different plants is perfectly acceptable. However, to make grafting easier as well as future cuts, it's best to use a cell that separates the plants, one per cell. This will also make it easy to separate them when you are ready because the roots are very aggressive and will branch out.



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Growing Coreopsis: How To Care For Coreopsis Flowers

Coreopsis spp. may be just what you need if you’re looking for lasting summer color after most perennial flowers fade from the garden. It is easy to learn how to care for coreopsis flowers, commonly called tickseed or pot of gold. When you’ve learned how to grow coreopsis, you’ll appreciate their sunny blooms throughout the gardening season.

Coreopsis flowers may be annual or perennial and come in a variety of heights. A member of the Asteraceae family, blooms of growing coreopsis are similar to those of the daisy. Colors of petals include red, pink, white and yellow, many with dark brown or maroon centers, which makes an interesting contrast to the petals.

Coreopsis is native to the United States and 33 species are known and listed by the Natural Resources Conservation Service of USDA on their website’s plant database. Coreopsis is the state wildflower of Florida, but many varieties are hardy up to USDA plant hardiness zone 4.


As with most herbs, oregano leaves taste best before the plant flowers. The flowers should be pinched to keep the plants bushy and prevent it from bolting to seed. The flowers stalks are spiky and may be white, pink, or purple.

You can begin harvesting when plants have reached 4 to 5 inches in height. Cut sprigs for use. Cutting stems all the way back to the ground will encourage more stems from the base and a fuller plant.

The stems tend to get woody and the easiest way to strip the leaves is to hold the stem by the top, uncut end and run your finger down the stem. Most of the necessary pruning will be accomplished by regular harvesting, but to keep oregano plants healthy, follow the guidelines for pruning woody herbs.

Few pests bother oregano, but keep an eye out for spider mites and aphids. Wet soils can cause root rot.

Pereskiopsis spathulata: grafting technique

For grafting young seedlings Pereskiopsis is probably the best option as it produces a fantastic growth rate in the slowest growing plants e.g. Ariocarpus, lophophora, aztekium etc. The photograph to the right is a 3 month old plant after grafting.

For the best results we use rooted Pereskiopsis cuttings of between 10-15 cm that are in active growth and haven’t been watered for a few days, as freshly watered plants can have too much sap that will push the scion off.
Wipe over the cutting surface with meths to sterilize it and select a few seedlings, place them on the surface.

Remove about 30 mm (1 inch) from the top of the Pereskiopsis (stock). We recommend using large tweezers or forceps to hold the plant for this operation. This will protect your fingers from the extremely sharp Pereskiopsis spines that also break off when you try to remove them and are painful.

Take a seedling (scion) and remove the bottom third along with the roots.

Quickly place the scion on top of the stock, usually at this size the cut seedling will stick to the blade, so just slide it off and onto the stock. Then gently press down on it to remove any trapped air.

For the graft to work, the vascular rings of the plants must make contact.This is probably the hardest part of using Pereskiopsis and seedlings, as it is almost impossible to see the vascular ring in the seedling and some luck is involved. We always set the scion just off centre.

It is recommended then to move the graft to a humid warm place with no extra weights to hold the plants together and out of direct sun light for a few days. In this time the plants should seal together. Then treat as a regular plant.

We find we have a better success rate by placing a clear pen lid over the graft to add a little pressure. This also creates a humid micro climate around the union and protects the graft from accidental knocks. The pen lid should be removed after 3-4 days.

We find when the graft has taken the seedling goes quite red before the new spines emerge. Also, remove any new side shoots from the stock plants as if left to grow they will sap energy from the scion. If you leave the side shoot to grow up to about 30mm before removing them at this size they will root up quite readily and provide more grafting stock.

The grafts are then grown on for 2 to 3 years, then removed and grown on their own roots, or re-grafted onto Myrtillocactus or Pachanoii.

Pereskiopsis spathulata-10 cm rooted Graft Stock

The solution for a cactus to grow faster is grafting, Pereskiopsis is well know for it speed grows, grafting Lophophora on a pereskiopsis will significantly speed up its growth. This solution can be applied to all Peyote families and other cactus such as : Aztekium, Astrophytum, Ariocarpus, Obregonia and other slow growing cactus.


Pereskiopsis Spathulata is a specie that is most commonly used to performing cactus seedling grafts, It roots very readily and can withstand both frequent and infrequent watering.The average temperature that is happy with is 12C (55F). It have tropical features unlike many other cacti, with their affection towards regular watering and humidity. So do not be afraid of watering yours.

Grafting Technique:

You will find all you need to know about grafting your Peyote or your other beloved cactus here. grafting(coming soon)

Care and Cultivation:

Pereskiopsis spathulata it is easy to take care, these cacti should be watered well in summer with much less to nothing in winter. A mix between cacti and normal potting mix is best. It like warm and moist conditions.

Careful about the tiny thorn. You have to removed them before they goes deep into your skin. Else it is quite painful. Or wear gloves.

We will send you a 10cm cutting plant that is the ideal size to get a perfect graft. It will be sent by normal airmail and arrive in 3 weeks on average

Watch the video: How to micrograft Lophophora seedlings on thick rootstocks!

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