5 obvious reasons why your plants die during transplanting


Houseplants enliven the interior and delight us with their appearance. But caring for them is not only timely watering, they are also demanding on the correct lighting and temperature conditions, and react very sharply to such a procedure as a transplant. One of the most crucial moments in caring for home flowers is the process of transplanting (transplanting), which can ruin all the pleasure of growing them. Plants transfer it in different ways: some get sick for a long time, others immediately begin to actively develop. Therefore, it is important to replant at the right time and do it right.

You transplant the plant right after you buy it

Even a person in a new place needs time to adapt. The same rule applies to plants. Let it sit for at least a few days under the new conditions before replanting it. Moving to a new place is always a shock for a flower. It finds itself in different climatic conditions - with a new temperature, lighting and humidity of the environment. This adaptation takes 1 to 2 weeks, and the plants should be kept away from others during this period. To make this process painless, it is desirable for him to provide intermediate conditions - both in terms of lighting and temperature. It is better for this period to place them in a cool place where the temperature does not rise above 20 degrees. It is worth creating mild conditions for light and humidity. Compliance with the latter factor will help them to gently tame to a new habitat. During the entire adaptation period, try not to disturb them.

You are choosing the wrong season for transplanting

Spring is considered the best time of the year to move indoor plants to a new pot. During this period, they gradually come out of dormancy and prepare for the growing season. For plants blooming in winter, this time will be autumn. There is no need for a spring transplant for many types of cacti. It is better to handle them without destroying the earthen coma and do it closer to winter. Therefore, it is better to plan the purchase of flower crops for the periods when they enter the active stage of recovery, and choose the right season for their purchase. If you bought a plant when it is in bloom, then wait until it finishes. Many flowering ones even react to a change of position - they shed buds and flowers, and transplanting is stressful for them.

You forget about pre-watering

Before transplanting, you need abundant watering. It can be produced within 3 days. Alternatively, if an emergency transplant is required, place the flower pot in a container of water for at least one hour. The fact is that the roots will be easier to extract from the moistened soil, and they will not receive additional mechanical damage. When moving into a clay pot, the future container for a green guest must be thoroughly soaked with water. Clay takes up a lot of moisture and, when dry, can draw all the water out of the planting soil and flower in a short time. Such a simple manipulation will protect the plant from shock during the transplantation. If we are talking about cacti, succulents or a fat woman, then these pets do not like excess moisture. It is better not to fill this type of green world with water first, a little watering is enough for them. And they need to be transplanted into a well-moistened soil, after which the first watering should be done after 2-3 days, when their roots are restored.

You pull the plant out of the container

A common mistake for beginner growers is to try to pull the plant by the ground part in order to remove it from the plastic pot in which it was brought home. To get it out of there, you need skill and accuracy. First, use a spatula to go over the inside edge of the pot, detaching the earthen ball from the sides of the container. Secondly, you need to gently knock on the bottom while holding the main plant. It is not necessary to pull on the ground part, like a turnip. This will injure both the leaves and the root. After removing the plant from the ground, gently shake the soil off the main coma to slightly expose the roots. This will stimulate their growth. Pour the prepared soil at the bottom of the new pot and place the plant in it. Cover all free space in the container with earth and lightly compact. Check if it is firmly positioned. Finish this process with watering.

Expose the plant to the sun

A transplanted plant also requires a careful attitude towards itself until it passes the adaptation period, now in a new pot and with a new earthen substrate. The first days, protect it from the sun's rays - ultraviolet light can be destructive these days. You can save them from the sun in a simple way - just place them behind the tulle or attach a sheet of white paper to the glass. Watering after transplanting depends on the characteristics of the plant. The dry-loving ones need to be given time to heal the wounds on the roots obtained during the transplant. 2-3 days and it will be possible to moisten the earth. Tropical plants are less whimsical, and watering immediately after all the manipulations is not terrible for them. At the same time, sprinkle the earth, which will settle after the first moistening of the soil. If the leaves droop, this is a signal to increase the volume of incoming water, and the yellow color signals an excess of moisture.


Terry calistegia

Amateur flower growers grow various vines, both decorative deciduous and flowering. The advantage of lianas is that they can close an unsightly fence, an old hedge, or an outbuilding, which spoils the general appearance by its appearance. They can not only decorate all this, but can also serve as a living screen. The terry kalestegia is capable of all this. This is a real assistant to gardeners and florists, despite its unpretentiousness. This plant can delight others with its beauty throughout the season, and you can watch its flowering until the frost.

This flower is popularly called the Siberian rose. This is due to the fact that the flowers are similar to the inflorescences of blossoming roses, but not strict and dense, but somewhat fluffy. The advantage of kalistegia is that it blooms profusely already in the first year of planting, starting in mid-July. The plant forms in each axil of green leaves. We can safely say that as many leaves on a flower, there are as many flowers that constantly bloom until the beginning of winter.

Terry calistegia is very often confused with climbing roses and clematis, but in gardens you will hardly find calistegia. Even in flower shops it is very difficult to get hold of planting material, which is basically a stumbling block for those who do not mind having this vine in their garden.


When is the best time to replant roses

The reasons why roses in the garden need to be transplanted can be different:

  • depleted ground
  • deterioration in illumination due to overgrown neighboring plants
  • regular pest attack
  • creation of new flower beds.

The planned movement of the flower to a new location is best done at the end of the season. Transplanting roses in autumn is considered the safest for the plant. You can transplant the bush in early spring, this will slightly "postpone" the beginning of flowering, but will not have a negative effect on the plant. It is most difficult to transplant an adult specimen during the height of the summer season, especially during the abundant flowering.

In the spring

A rose transplant in the spring to a new place is carried out at a time when the soil is saturated with moisture after the snow cover has melted, warmed up by 7-10 ° C, and the buds on the bush have not yet swollen. During this period, optimal conditions are provided for the survival of the bushes. The disadvantage of a spring transplant is that the rose spends additional energy on the formation of new roots and adaptation to the place, which interferes with the onset of flowering.

The calendar period for carrying out work on moving the flower depends on the climate. In the middle lane, roses are planted in early April, in the southern regions in mid-February.

In summer

If it becomes necessary to transplant adult bushes in the summer, special rules should be followed. The plant is subjected to cardinal pruning. All buds and flowers are removed, the shoots are shortened by half. In tall roses, trunks with a height of no more than 50 cm are left, in dwarf varieties, shoots are cut off after 2-3 buds.

Preferred transfer times are evening hours and cloudy weather. At first, a rose planted in a new place is often watered, protected from sunlight and winds. On hot and dry days, spray with warm water.

In autumn

Transplanting roses in the fall is carried out 3-4 weeks before the onset of frost. In this case, the plant successfully takes root in the still warm soil, but does not have time to grow new shoots. An earlier date of planting a flower in a new place will provoke the growth of green mass, which will weaken the plant before the winter cold. Planting roses just before the temperature drops to negative values ​​leads to the death of a perennial. A weakened plant will not have time to grow new roots, adapt to changed conditions and will not survive the winter cold.


Oxalis loves moisture, but its excess can wither away. Fanatical watering is one of the main causes of problems with this crop. The root system of the culture is stable, a large amount of water will not lead to its rotting, but growth will stop. Short droughts will also lead to the same result, so flowers will not appear. And if you leave your sour acid without water for a long time, then you will completely lose it. The exception is the winter months, when the flower will thank you for the complete absence of watering for several weeks.

If your oxalis refused to bloom precisely because of errors in the watering regime, let the soil dry out from early spring to late autumn. A five-centimeter layer of soil should dry out. From December, water even less so that the substrate remains dry until the middle of the container if the plant is warm. For those acid lice that are in the cold, the substrate in the pot must dry completely.


How and how to help petunia seedlings

Many problems with growing petunia seedlings are associated with the very small size of the seeds and their tightness. It takes them from 1 week to germinate - provided that the seed quality is good, but more often the germination period takes 14 (and sometimes more) days.

If petunia seeds do not germinate well

Sowing petunias is started early. Many amateur flower growers do this already in February, so there is a great desire to get charming flowering plants as early as possible. Also, early sowing for seedlings is due to the long growing season. From the emergence of seedlings to the beginning of flowering, about 3 months pass and the February crops will delight with flowering in May, respectively, the March seedlings will grow, get stronger and bloom not earlier than June.

But for this to happen, you must try and avoid mistakes when sowing, so that the seedlings are even and friendly. Petunia seeds are sown superficially, without embedding in the soil. Light dusting with sand is allowed, otherwise seedlings will not appear. This is one reason for poor seed germination.

Sowing is carried out on moist soil and additionally moistened from a small sprayer so as not to wash off the dust particles-seeds in one heap. Pelleted seeds require more moisture, because it is necessary to achieve the destruction of the outer nutrient membrane. This further emphasizes the need for drainage holes to drain excess moisture.

Seedling boxes are placed in bright light, covered with film or glass on top to retain heat and moisture. Crops are aired daily, removing condensate from the surface of the covering material. If necessary, moisten the soil using a sprayer.

Why petunia seedlings fall and die after germination

And now the long-awaited seedlings turned green with the first leaves. How to care for them to grow healthy seedlings and bring them safely to flowering? There may be several reasons why the seedlings begin to fall and die.

  1. The humidity in the room does not meet the requirements of the plants.
  2. Diseases resulting from improper soil preparation or violation of agricultural technology.
  3. Damage to the root system.

If, after the emergence of seedlings, an amateur florist immediately and permanently removes glass from the seedling box, this will dramatically change the conditions of detention. The dry air of an apartment can lead to the death of seedlings, therefore, petunia seedlings should be accustomed to the environment gradually. But the seedlings should be ventilated and condensate should also be removed daily.

Most often, petunia sprouts are affected by a black leg. One day, not a very beautiful day, the hostess notices that several seedlings broke and fell. It is impossible to revive such a sprout. At this point, it is important to prevent mass infection.

A characteristic sign of the appearance of a black leg on seedlings is a thinning of the stem at the very base, and mold fungi cause it. They live in the upper layer of the soil and, under favorable conditions for them, begin to eat the living tissue of plants, causing their death. If such an ailment touches your greens, you should immediately remove the shoots with signs of the disease. The remaining seedlings are transplanted into clean, disinfected soil.

A good prophylactic agent is wood ash, which is carefully sprayed between the rows of petunias. Excessive moisture combined with cold soil can also cause fungus to activate. Therefore, it is recommended to grow petunia seedlings at a temperature of 18-23 ° C and carry out a controlled water supply.

Root system problems cannot be detected immediately. Yesterday, a healthy sprout suddenly takes on a depressed look, the leaves are drooping. The reason may be low soil temperature due to the fact that the seedling box is on a cold windowsill.

Place a plank or other insulating material that prevents the bottom of the container from directly contacting the cold surface of the concrete window sill.

Or maybe the sprout has just become cramped in the previous container and needs more volume for normal development? Transplant the plant to provide a larger area of ​​nutrition.

Leaves on petunia seedlings turn yellow

Transplanting a petunia may be accompanied by yellowing of the lower cotyledonous leaves. This is a natural process and should not be a concern for the grower. Another thing is when the leaves begin to turn yellow, located in different parts of the stem. Moreover, the leaf plate itself becomes pale, and the veins remain green. There can be no doubt - petunia lacks iron, which leads to a disease called chlorosis.

In this case, you will need foliar feeding (spraying) of plants with iron-containing preparations:

  • Ferovit,
  • "Iron chelate"
  • "Micro Fe".

In a liquid and accessible form, iron is easily absorbed by leaves and soon their color will be restored and will be no different from healthy ones.

What to do if the leaves of petunia seedlings turn yellow: video

If the seedlings are pulled

Thin tall petunia stems with wide internodes indicate a lack of light, so early crops require additional lighting.

Also, the high temperature of the content contributes to the strong sprouting of seedlings. When central heating radiators mercilessly warm and dry the air in the room, and there is not enough natural light, no other result can be expected.

In this situation, pinch the top of the main stem, and the plant itself is buried in the ground by cotyledon leaves.They reduce the temperature of the content, provide additional artificial lighting and soon there will be a low and abundantly branching petunia bush in front of you.

Petunia has outgrown - what to do: video

Grows poorly after a pick

Poor growth of petunia seedlings can be caused by insufficient soil volume in seedling boxes. But when, after a dive and a period of adaptation, no plant development is observed, this means one thing: the flowers lack nutrition and, in particular, boron. Therefore, 2 weeks after picking, feed the sprouts with a full complex fertilizer with microelements.

Boron deficiency can be replenished by spraying boric acid (0.7 g / 1 l of water). After the soil is enriched with microelements, petunia seedlings are restored in a week.

If petunia seedlings grow poorly in peat tablets

It is very convenient to grow petunia seedlings in peat tablets. This option facilitates sowing, maintenance and eliminates trauma to the root system during transplantation.

When choosing nurseries, you should give preference to tablets with a small - 3-4 cm - diameter. This will be enough for sowing seeds. From the moment of emergence to transplanting into a large container, the sprouts will not need additional nutrition, because peat-peat substrate is supplied with the necessary amount of microelements for feeding young seedlings.

The danger that can lie in wait for an amateur grower when growing petunias in this way is the possibility of drying out the substrate. It is necessary to carefully monitor the moisture content of the peat and as soon as it begins to acquire a reddish tint, watering is carried out. Water is poured into a sump in which peat kegs are installed. After saturation of the soil with moisture, the unclaimed liquid is drained to avoid rotting of the root system.

You also need to monitor the development of the roots. Sooner or later, they will fill a small volume of the tablet and break through. If you do not transplant the petunia bush in a large container in time, the roots will dry out, which will negatively affect the general condition of the flower.

In the process of caring for seedlings of petunias in peat tablets, you can encounter such a problem as greening or mold coating of the top layer. The reason for this may be excessive humidity and content in cool, below 18 ° C, conditions.

The peat must be sanitized immediately. The plaque is removed with a cotton pad dipped in a pink solution of manganese. In order to prevent the spread of foci of reproduction of microbes, plants are watered with a solution of the drug "Previkur" for 10-14 days.


Why seedlings die

Disease affection

More often, plants die due to disease - black leg, root and root rot. This is a scourge for indoor or greenhouse plants. Sometimes it leads to complete death. The reasons why seedlings die after germination:

  • Seeds are poorly disinfected.
  • Watering with cold water.
  • Thickened sowing.
  • Lowered temperatures.

As soon as the first symptoms of the disease appear, do not delay treatment. First of all, "move" diseased plants to another place, where they may still move away after treatment with fungicides.

Recommendation.
Discard or disinfect containers freed from diseased seedlings. Only initially decide on the type of pathogen, conduct a diagnosis. The situation will be aggravated by unimplemented measures for the prevention of diseases on seed.

If the development of the disease is at the initial stage, it may be enough to add fresh disinfected soil to form new roots. If there are clear signs, irrigate with a fungicidal preparation recommended for this pathogen. Folk means of struggle will also be in place, of which every summer resident has a lot of them. Large-scale thinning is required.

Wrong pick

Weak specimens are removed first. After picking, lower the room temperature by two to three days. Do not leave transplanted plants in bright sunlight, shade. Some cultures do not like picking: cucumbers, peppers.

On a note.
For transplanting, a transshipment method is applicable that does not affect the root system. This is the case if the seeds of these crops were not initially sown in separate containers. When diving, the seedlings suffer greatly, they can die if the roots are severely damaged.

Pests in a pot or plant

After identifying the main pest, they are treated with chemical or, better, biological insecticide preparations.

Non-compliance with temperature standards

Plants may freeze if the temperature drops dramatically when the window or balcony is not closed.

Excessive sunlight

Direct sunlight is sometimes harmful, causing severe burns.

Getting your own seedlings is troublesome. However, your time and effort will pay off with excellent harvests. The main thing is to follow the established rules, observe the necessary requirements for growing conditions, and you will succeed. Good luck to everyone!

Read our other articles on planting:

What fertilizers are needed for seedlings: the best preparations and application rules
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Correct cultivation of cucumber seedlings

Subject to the rules of agricultural technology, you can grow cucumber seedlings so that they do not stretch out. For this, the seeds are prepared before sowing. They are soaked in a growth activator solution. Then they are disinfected and tempered. For planting, use a loose soil mixture with neutral acidity. It should provide good aeration of the root system. The seeds are planted to a depth of 2 cm.

When the first true leaf appears, the seedlings are transplanted into larger containers. The transplant is performed carefully, trying not to damage the roots. After 4 days, the plants are fed with a fertilizer solution with a high content of potassium and phosphorus. Such feeding is necessary to stimulate root formation.

After another 2 days, humic organic acids are added. When 3 true leaves appear on the cucumbers, they are transplanted into larger containers. The transplant is done by the transshipment method so as not to destroy the earthen lump.

To prevent cucumber seedlings from stretching, the seedlings must be provided with light, warmth and nutrients. Weak plants with thin stems are difficult to recover. They are transplanted in a special way so that they successfully take root and begin to bear fruit.


Watch the video: Why Does My Plant Look like Its Dying Right After Planting? . Garden Answer


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