Haworthia turgida var. suberecta is distinguished from Haworthia turgida by its truncate to rounded leaf-tips. It form tight colonies…
Origin and Habitat: Republic of South Africa (Western Cape: Swellendam to Riversdale).
Habitat: It dwells on limestone hills and on slates mainly protected from strong sunlight in the shade of thorn bushes. However it will stand more direct sunlight than others.
Description: Haworthia turgida var. suberecta distinguish from the standard var. turgida for its leaf-tips that are truncate and rounded, green to purplish and very mottled and not lanceolate or long-triangular. It develops tight colonies composed of multiple rosettes. However different clones may vary in leaf size, shape, marking, and growth habit.
Rosettes: Compact, 5-6,5(-10) cm in diameter, almost stemless with 20 to 40 tightly packed leaves.
Leaves: 1-3 cm long and up to1,2 cm broad, ovate-lanceolate blunted and slightly retuse at the ends, fleshy, turgid, often as thick as broad, smooth and semi-translucent and have a jelly bean like in the upper part of the face with 3-7 longitudinal green lines and heavily mottled with whitish flocks. The leaf colour is usually an olive-green but if kept dryish, cool or given a bit extra light can take on rusty-red tones.
Inflorescence: Scape few-flowered, upright, wiry, 15 - 20 cm tall.
Flowers: Approximatively 20 to 30, tiny, slender, tubular brownish-white with darker venation.
Blooming season: Spring.
Subspecies, varieties, forms and cultivars of plants belonging to the Haworthia turgida group
Bibliography: Major references and further lectures
1) Stuart Max Walters “The European Garden Flora: Pteridophyta, Gymbospermae, Angiospermae-Monocotyledons” Cambridge University Press, 1984
2) M. B. Bayer “The new Haworthia handbook” National Botanic Gardens of South Africa, 1982
3) John Pilbeam “Haworthia and Astroloba: A Collector's Guide” Batsford, 1983
4) Urs Eggli “Illustrated Handbook of Succulent Plants: Monocotyledons” Springer, 2001
5) John Robert Brown “Unusual plants: 110 spectacular photographs of succulents” Abbey Garden Press, 1954
6) Pauline Bohnen “Flowering plants of the Southern Cape” Still Bay Trust, 1986
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Cultivation and Propagation: Haworthia are of easy cultivation and relatively low maintenance, which makes them a good houseplant, and can be an excellent subject for the beginning succulentophile (they can grow easily on window sills, verandas and in miniature succulent gardens where they are happy to share their habitat with other smaller succulent plants, or in outdoor rockeries). Haworthias are winter growers and are dormant in the hottest summer months.
Growth rate: They are relatively fast-growing plants that offsets freely to form small clusters quickly.
Soil: They are tolerant of a wide range of soils and habitats, but prefer a very porous potting mix to increase drainage. A non-acid soil is ideal. You can grow a plant in a 10-15 cm pot for years and have perfectly happy plants. For best results, use a shallow pot.
Exposition: The plant needs light shade to shade, but will take full sun part of the day. (with some sun exposure the leaf develops a nice reddish tint and remains compact).
Watering: During the hot summer months, the soil should be kept moist but not overly wet. During the winter months, water only when the soil becomes completely dry. Wet soil quickly causes root and stem rot, especially during chilly winter months. No water should ever be allowed to stand around the roots. Low ambient humidity is always needed.
Fertilization: The plants are fertilized only once during the growing season with a balanced fertilizer diluted to ½ the recommended strength.
Hardiness: Although the plant will survive mild frost if kept dry (hardy as low as -5° C) it should be protected from severe cold and prolonged frost conditions.
Rot: Rot is only a minor problem with Haworthia if the plants are watered and “aired” correctly. If they are not, fungicides won't help all that much. Care must be given in watering, keeping them warm and wet while growing, and cooler and dry when dormant.
Remarks: Haworthias are best planted in a shaded and airy part of the greenhouse, and not too close to the glass roof or sides of the house as the plants can overheat during hot spells.
Propagation: Haworthia are easily propagated by the removal of offshoots or by leaf cuttings in spring or summer. To propagate by leaf cuttings, remove a leaf and let it lie for about one month, giving the wound time to heal. Then lay the leaf on its side with the basal part buried in the soil. This leaf should root within a month or two, and small plants will form at the leaf base. They can also be grown from seed.
|Family:||Asphodelaceae (as-foh-del-AY-see-ee) (Info)|
|Genus:||Haworthia (ha-WORTH-ee-a) (Info)|
|Species:||turgida var. suberecta|
|Synonym:||Haworthia retusa var. suberecta|
|Synonym:||Haworthia suberecta var. pallidifolia|
|Synonym:||Haworthia turgida f. pallidifolia|
Drought-tolerant suitable for xeriscaping
USDA Zone 10a: to -1.1 °C (30 °F)
USDA Zone 10b: to 1.7 °C (35 °F)
USDA Zone 11: above 4.5 °C (40 °F)
Can be grown as an annual
By dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets)
Allow cut surface to callous over before planting
From seed direct sow after last frost
From seed germinate in vitro in gelatin, agar or other medium
Bag seedheads to capture ripening seed
Allow pods to dry on plant break open to collect seeds
Seed does not store well sow as soon as possible
This plant is said to grow outdoors in the following regions:
On Jun 5, 2016, poeciliopsis from Phoenix, AZ wrote:
Central Phoenix -- I have Haworthia turgida suberecta (Goritz River) in a pot that sits on a patio wall, getting bright but complete shade most of the day, and about an of full sun in late afternoon. Surprisingly, it seems to like that. It is likely that the sun is the reason it remains a dark reddish-green. It gets water only about every 2 weeks in summer. It spends the winter inside and gets water about once a month. This is one of the cutest Haworthia and seems very easy to grow.
On Sep 23, 2004, palmbob from Acton, CA (Zone 8b) wrote:
One of the more translusecent species, this one with pointed leaves of pale, lime green. Can turn wonderful shades of pink and red in stressful times (cold and drought)
Not only is Haworthia turgida easy to grow, it’s also incredibly easy to propagate. As this is a clumping species of succulent, offset removal is the most common method of propagation.
However, growing this plant from cuttings and even seeds is a relatively easy process. Just remember that H. turgida is a slow-growing plant, so don’t expect immediate results.
Offset removal is by far the easiest method of Haworthia propagation as all you have to do is separate individual plants from the existing clumps and give them their own container.
Offsets, or pups, can be removed by gently pulling them from the soil by holding them at their base near the soil. You can also separate them using a sharp knife, but generally, this isn’t necessary.
The offsets will need to dry out for a few days to allow any wounds to heal. This prevents any risk of infection by bacteria or fungus once they are introduced to soil in their new pot.
After the offsets have calloused, simply plant them in their own containers and treat them just as you would a mature Haworthia.
Haworthia turgida can also be propagated with stem or leaf cuttings. Taking a stem cutting is also an ideal way to recover a plant that has stretched out due to inadequate light. Leaf cuttings are a great way to make use of any leaves that may accidentally be knocked off during repotting.
When taking a cutting, be sure to use a clean, sharp pair of scissors or shears. Using sharp tools will help prevent any damage to your cuttings or mother plant.
Once you’ve collected your cuttings, you’ll again need to give them a few days in the open air to allow their wounds to callous.
Before planting, you can also dip the cuttings into rooting hormone powder to encourage faster root growth. This isn’t a necessary step, but it’s helpful for impatient gardeners.
After planting, you should begin to see tiny roots appearing from your cuttings within a few weeks. Once the roots appear, you can begin watering your cuttings as normal.
Growing Haworthia turgida from seeds is the slowest method of propagation, so be prepared to wait a while until you have mature plants. Haworthia seeds can be collected from your own plants or you can purchase them on the internet.
Many gardeners recommend soaking the seeds prior to sowing to encourage better germination. When you’re ready to sow, be sure to use the same fast-draining soil you use with mature succulents.
You’ll need to keep the seeds moist until seedlings appear, so it’s important to keep the soil covered to help retain moisture and humidity. However, the soil shouldn’t be overly wet as that may cause the seeds to rot.
Within a few weeks, you should see tiny Haworthia seedlings breaching the top of the soil. At this point, you can uncover the seedlings and treat them normally. It’s best to wait until the seedlings are a sturdier size before transplanting to prevent any accidental damage from handling.
Tarah Schwartz is a freelance writer living in Scottsdale, Arizona. Her life in the desert has inspired a passion for succulents and cacti.
Haworthia turgida var. suberecta (Poellnitz): A unique variety with mesmerizing foliage. This loose rosette has particularly round, obtuse leaves that stand upright. The windowed leaf tips are densely mottled with semi-translucent speckles. This variety can take on a deep pink tinge when moderately stressed by heat, sun, and drought.
Haworthia are able to tolerate low, indoor light, making them excellent houseplants, even for beginners. They are particularly easy to grow and rarely affected by common succulent pests and diseases. Strong, drought-tolerant roots will grow if they have great drainage and infrequent water. Pick deep containers with drainage holes and a gritty, well-draining soil that is 50% to 70% mineral grit (coarse sand, pumice, or perlite). Water deeply enough for water to run out the drainage hole and allow the soil to completely dry before watering again.
This genus tolerates high heat by slowing down and eventually going dormant in the peak of summer. This means that, unlike other succulents, it is important not to over-water or fertilize during summer dormancy. Haworthia are slow growers and tend to stay small in pots, but they will produce new offsets in clumps around their bases. These offsets can be left to develop into a dense clump or pulled off and transplanted.